Finding Out Why It Failed
We start by working out what went wrong, because otherwise the same thing simply happens again.
Blisters and bubbles usually mean moisture coming up from below, which means a moisture test and in all likelihood a vapour-tolerant primer or a barrier build next time. Sheets lifting cleanly away with smooth concrete underneath usually means the slab was acid etched rather than ground, so the coating never keyed in at all. Wear showing up only at the wheel tracks usually means the system was too thin, and more often than not it was a kit. Yellowing means clear epoxy somewhere daylight reaches it, which a UV-stable top coat fixes outright. And a powdery, chalky surface generally means the coating has simply reached the end of its life and the wear layer is spent.
What The Repair Involves
Everything loose comes off mechanically, with grinders and where necessary shot blasting. Sound coating is ground to a profile the new build can key into, or removed altogether if it is not sound enough to trust. The bare slab underneath is then tested for moisture exactly like any new floor, cracks and spalls and pitting are repaired, and a new system goes on specified against the reason the old one failed rather than against the old one's spec sheet.
The Cheaper Case
Not every tired floor has to come off. Where the system beneath is still solid and it is only the top layer that has gone, we key the surface back and lay a fresh clear over it. That costs far less and puts the room out of action for a fraction of the time. Which of the two jobs you are looking at is usually clear from a close photograph and confirmed on site.