An outdoor slab is not an indoor slab that happens to be outside. It has to handle daylight, standing water and a freeze-thaw cycle that runs all winter here, and it has a far shorter installation season. Use an indoor build outdoors and it will fail in the first spring.
The top coat has to be UV stable or it ambers, and clear epoxy outdoors goes yellow reliably, so outdoor work is polyaspartic-topped as standard. The surface has to be non-slip while wet, because wet is what a patio is for a good part of the year, so aggregate goes through the top coat.
The build also has to move. An outdoor slab expands and contracts far further than a heated indoor one, and the system has to flex with it rather than crack. And the water has to leave: a slab that ponds will fail at the puddle first, so we check the falls before quoting anything.
Covered patios and porches are the best candidates by a distance, simply because they are protected from the worst of it. Beyond those it goes down well on front porch slabs and steps, three season rooms and enclosed porches, pool surrounds where the grip specification matters most, and carport slabs and walkways. Fully exposed open patios can be done, and we will be straight with you about the trade-off before you spend the money.
Outdoor work here runs roughly late spring to early autumn. That is not a scheduling preference. The concrete has to be dry the whole way through and warm enough to cure, and it has to hold both of those for the length of the cure, which a single warm afternoon in March does not deliver. Polyaspartic widens that window at both ends. It does not open it in January.
Send a photo of the slab and tell us whether it is covered, which tells us most of what we need. Call +1 226-457-4250.
Farm shops, packing rooms, plants and patios, alongside the garage and basement work.
A flake floor is three layers doing three different jobs. A pigmented resin base goes down first, coloured vinyl chip is thrown into it while it is still wet, and once that has hardened a clear wear coat is rolled over the whole thing.
View Flake Epoxy Flooring
A garage floor around here takes a beating that has very little to do with how carefully you park.
View Garage Floor Coating
Polyaspartic is a different family of resin to epoxy, and it solves two problems epoxy has.
View Polyaspartic Floor Coating
A basement is the easiest room in the house to coat and the easiest one to get wrong, and in Chatham-Kent it is moisture that decides which of the two you end up with.
View Basement Floor Coating
Not every job is a garage. A good deal of what we coat is simply concrete that needs to stop being bare: a shop floor, a mechanical room, a storage building, a landing, a pad beside the lane.
View Concrete Floor Coating
A working floor is specified against three things: what rolls across it, how it gets cleaned, and when the building can afford to be shut. Everything else follows from those answers, which is why a retail unit, a warehouse, an equipment shop and a packing room all end up with different builds even though they start from the same materials.
View Industrial and Commercial Flooring
Peeling. Bubbling. Patches lifting where the tyres sit. A clear coat gone yellow by the window, or a floor that has simply turned dull and chalky.
View Epoxy Floor Repair and Recoating
Metallic is the decorative end of what we do. Metallic pigment is dispersed through clear resin and then moved while it is still wet, so the finished floor ends up with depth and movement running through it and reads closer to polished stone than to a coating.
View Metallic Epoxy FlooringWe grind a small patch, take a moisture reading off the slab and leave a written spec behind. The visit is free.
Fill this in and we will come back to you with either a price or the couple of questions we need answered first. Prefer to talk it through? Call +1 226-457-4250.
